For the second time in two weeks, we’re back in Illinois with Penn State! The Lions are there to face their third and final B1G West opponent of the year. After easily taking care of Illinois on the road two weeks ago (30-13) and then dispatching Iowa at home last week (31-0), the Lions were taking on “Chicago’s Big Ten Team”, the Northwestern Wildcats. With the bye week in front of them, would the Lions lay it all on the line and extend their record 12-game streak of scoring 30 or more points in a game? Or would they lift off the accelerator and coast towards the mid-season break? Either way, looming off in the not-too-distant future is the brutal B1G East schedule.
Considering this was also the third time we’d been to the Windy City in the past year (after Purdue last year), we made this trip a quick one. In on Friday and out on Sunday. We decided to stay away from downtown and focus more on the North Shore area of Evanston and north.
Pop Quiz – Why is it called Northwestern if the campus is located in the northeastern part of Illinois, and Illinois is considered the Midwest?
Bonus Question – Why is it called Evanston?
Campus Tour
After arriving at O’Hare, we drove directly to the campus so we could get that out of the way early. Northwestern sits on the shore of Lake Michigan, about 14 miles north of Chicago. We lucked out with the weather – with the high 70s on Friday and an even more unseasonably warm 80 on Saturday!
Our first stop was a quick bite to eat and Happy Hour in Downtown Evanston. Let’s just say our immediate impression wasn’t that great. The town sits on the southern end of the campus and is home to a few restaurants, bars, and shops. Nothing spectacular and nothing iconic. When researching places to eat, the options were very limited. We ended up at Trattoria Demi, and we were the only people in the place when we arrived. Strange considering this was a Friday night on a football weekend. However, this would turn out to be a recurring theme.
From there, we went to the Visitors Center on campus. By the time we arrived, it was already closed, so we decided on a self-guided tour. Behind the building is the Clark Street Beach area. Boaters were still enjoying the early fall weather.
Looking south to the horizon, you can see the nation’s third-largest city. Our recent visits to Chicago have actually been outstanding. Last year, after the Purdue game, we toured the city and came away very impressed. Sure, we saw our fair share of homeless, and we felt like they had a skunk problem because everywhere you went, you could smell marijuana, but overall, it was a relatively clean city with normal big-city issues.
The campus of Northwestern, and Evanston in general, was an interesting mix of architecture – blending Gothic with modern and everything in between. Here, the Bienen School of Music building that sits on the water’s edge represents the more modern side.
Opposite the building is the mouth of The Lakefill, a reclaimed area of Lake Michigan that today acts as a park between the University and the only Great Lake to lie completely within the United States – Lake Michigan.
Limestone blocks were used as barriers – and over the years, students, I’m guessing, used them as their canvas to paint some unique messages and scenes along the shores of Lake Michigan.
From the mouth of the Lakefill, you can see the park on the right and the world-renowned Kellogg School of Management in the background. The Kellogg School is one of the most highly regarded business schools in the world.
The Kellogg School was founded in 1908 and is one of the oldest and most prestigious Business Schools in the world. Notable Alumni include the CEOs or former CEOs of some of the nation’s top brands, such as IBM, Motorola, NCR, Kohler, Dupont, Johnson Controls, ExxonMobil, and many more.
And yes, that is the Northwestern Wildcats practice field just outside the Kellogg Building. The collection of buildings in the background on the right of Kellogg are the Walter Athletic Center, Norris Aquatic Center, Ryan Fieldhouse, and Henry Crown Sports Pavilion.
The relatively new Walter Athletic Center was opened in 2018 at a cost of $270 million and houses all of the sports teams in a central location – and what a location it is! The views along the Lake are spectacular!
Main Entrance
For a more in-depth overview of the building, check out this video from its opening.
Just across from the Football building was this contraption. It seems as though the building was prone to bird strikes – likely from the reflective windows looking like Lake Michigan and a safe landing zone for the numerous Canadian Geese we saw overhead. The solar-powered speakers constantly squawk and are said to warn the birds of the danger.
Another example of the mixed architecture is the University Library. It’s reportedly the 14th-largest library in North America based on the number of titles available! This building was opened in 1970 and is connected to the original Deering Library, which opened in 1933.
The Deering Library represents the older architecture but was not among the original buildings on campus.
The Sigma Alpha Epsilon Foundation is housed in the Levere Memorial Temple. Even though the fraternity was founded at the University of Alabama in 1856, this serves as its international headquarters. It was named for William Levere, a prominent member of the fraternity who served as their treasurer for 27 years. He also served as the Treasurer for the City of Evanston. Levere bequeathed $25,000 towards the $400,000 project. Lavere passed away in 1927, and this gothic-style building finished construction in 1930.
Not far from the Foundation headquarters is the SAE house for Northwestern students.
We didn’t explore the interior of the campus as much as we wanted. We missed seeing the University’s oldest building, University Hall, built in 1869. Thanks to the internet, you can see the more Gothic-style architecture that is sprinkled throughout the campus.
Just north of campus sits the Grosse Point Lighthouse. The navigational beacon was constructed in 1873 after several shipping disasters occurred near Evanston. In 1999, it became the first Great Lake lighthouse to become a registered national historic landmark.
April 29, 1873
The new Lighthouse Keeper, Captain Boynton, was appointed in May 1874.
By 1920, Keeper E.J. Moore, who was responsible for the last thirty-seven years, announced that there had only been three wrecks near the site since 1900. Moore uttered his last words in 1924 with his wife by his side, “Is the light all right, mother?”
Next to the Lighthouse is the Harley Clarke Mansion. Clarke was a prominent utility executive in the area, and he completed the construction of his $200,000 home in 1927. The Sigma Chi fraternity acquired the property and used it from 1951 to 1965 until they built their current home. A year later, the City of Evanston purchased the property and leased it to the Evanston Arts Center. It was used as an art gallery until upkeep became too expensive. It closed in 2015 and sits vacant today.
We made a quick stop by Ryan Field the night before the game. All was quiet. Little did we know, the parking lot was almost as full as it would be the next day.
It’s rare to be able to see the Penn State equipment truck up close and personal – and it made for a great shot!
Wilmette, IL
Never one to turn away pizza, we found what we thought would be a great Neapolitan joint in downtown Wilmette, just north of Evanston. Napolita sits on the main street that runs through the small downtown area. It looked incredibly promising from the street and the interior.
Sadly, we were disappointed in the results.
Pregame!
On Saturday, we set out early for yet another 11 a.m. kickoff. I have to say, this kickoff time sucks. I can’t imagine how it affects the players – especially after coming off an amped-up Whiteout crowd and a 7:30 p.m. kickoff.
After finding a coffee shop near Ryan Field, we grabbed free parking along the street and made the short walk to the stadium. Before we could even make it there, we heard the sirens of the police escort. We made it just in time for Bus Arrival!
And who do we see just as we arrive? Our friends Susan and Ken exit the buses as Honorary Coaches for the game!
After the buses empty, we’re left standing in the shadow of the stadium less than 2 hours before kickoff. Where is everyone?!?! These are prime parking spots on the west side of the stadium, and the place is empty!
To be fair, it started to fill up shortly after this shot, but our estimate was that this lot was about 40% Penn State tailgates.
One thing that was likely impacting attendance has to be the somewhat recent firing of Head Coach Pat Fitzgerald. The long-time and beloved Coach Fitz became a casualty of the new administration. A scandal erupted, and he took the fall – even though it was reported that he knew nothing about the alleged hazing or racist incidents. The administration claimed that there were plenty of opportunities for him to find out about it. Sigh…
As head coach of the football program for 17 years, Patrick Fitzgerald was responsible for the conduct of the program. He had the responsibility to know that hazing was occurring and to stop it. He failed to do so.
Northwestern University Statement
After the allegations came to light, a few former players initiated lawsuits against Fitzgerald and the University. Coach Fitz recently countered and would initiate a $130M wrongful termination lawsuit. Stay tuned.
Clearly, some of the alumni and fans continue to support Fitz. Some were very vocal in their disdain for the new (Sept 2022) President, Michael Schill, and the relatively new (July 2021) Athletic Director, Derrick Gragg. They were selling these shirts in the parking lot, and I saw quite a few takers throughout the lots and the stands. The 51 is a reference to the coach’s playing days at Northwestern.
With limited activity in the tailgate area, we decided to take the short walk to some nearby bars. You could tell that today was going to have a fairly visible Penn State crowd. But I have to wonder. How is it possible that so many people still wear blue when attending a Penn State game on the road? Did they not get the message that “On the road, we wear WHITE?” Maybe it’s because the Social Media team didn’t update their graphic for Northwestern.
We popped into Ten Mile House for a beverage and struck up a conversation with a couple sporting Northwestern gear. Turns out, they are the parents of current Northwestern Senior Linebacker and Captain Bryce Gallagher and his older brother Blake. Both played under Fitzgerald – with Blake even sporting Fitzgerald’s #51 jersey. When asked about the early kickoff, he said they call it “Wildcat Time.” He explained that it’s a somewhat normal start time for them but a shock to teams that come in from the Eastern time zone to play.
Dad had nothing but great things to say about Coach Fitz. I won’t share all of his comments, but I certainly feel bad for Bryce. I can’t imagine the emotions of having your senior year impacted because Coach Fitz should have known.
One hour before kickoff, we went back to the stadium. After passing through security without any delay, you have access to an area just outside the visitor locker room. We saw the players getting ready for warmups – and were blown away at the size of Sophomore QB Drew Allar.
One thing we really enjoyed about Ryan Field is their “N Zone”, a fenced-off area outside the stadium but inside security. Here, you can grab a beer and some food while tossing bags and listening to some music. A great concept. Oh, and they don’t allow alcohol inside the stadium, so you’ll have to finish it before entering. No worrying about a beer being spilled all over you. What a concept!
On the East side of the stadium, tailgaters are set up, but again, you have to wonder, Is this normal? Interesting to see the flag pole with Northwestern, Princeton, and Pitt.
We got to our seats thirty-six minutes before kickoff. Where is everyone? This is definitely a “bring your own juice” environment.
With so few people in the stands, we decided to walk down to field level before kickoff.
Player warmups continued on this perfect morning for football. The place was so quiet you could hear some of the conversations!
Still in awe twenty minutes before kickoff, and the place is empty!
We struggled to find the student section. We had to wait until the band finished their pregame routine so they could take their seats. It was only then that you could see the small section to our left that was designated for students.
During pregame, Northwestern highlighted its “Together We Win” campaign. It’s a message about the University’s commitment to Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion. The stadium announcer shared how hate against any group is not tolerated – and they went on to list virtually every group you could imagine. It included a video message as well.
After that, the Northwestern Band took the field to perform “Lift Every Voice & Sing”, otherwise known as the “Black National Anthem”, followed by the National Anthem.
After researching the campaign, it appears that Northwestern will feature this message at one game per NCAA team that hosts a home game during the 2022-2023 academic year.
Game Time!
At Kickoff, you can see the Penn State section on the far right filled in while the rest of the stadium is sparsely populated.
Another huge benefit of seeing Penn State on the road is the overall cost of the weekend. Flights into O’Hare are frequent, nonstop, and cheap! And while hotels in downtown Evanston are limited and expensive, there are plenty of options in the suburbs for a fraction of the price of the Hampton Inn State College on a game weekend.
And finally, ticket prices. We scooped up these seats the night before on SeatGeek for $50 each! Sure. It’s not Happy Valley, but being able to explore other campuses at a fraction of the cost of a trip to State College makes it more palatable.
The Lions struggled in the first half – just as they did at Illinois. But they pulled things together after the half. Seems like this is a bit of a trend, but hey, remember 2016? That ended up all right.
Manny’s defense was playing at a high level once again. They limited the Cats to just 45 rushing yards on 32 attempts., and just 130 passing yards on 31 attempts. Add in two critical fourth-down stops and a late interception, and the defense earns their flowers once again.
A little drama came when backup Beau Pribula entered the game with just over two minutes to play. With the Lions up 34-13, firmly in control of the game, Beau faked a QB run to suck in the linebackers, opening up the middle like Moses parted the Red Sea. He took a step back and threw a strike to Trey Potts for an untouched 30-yard TD – adding points that covered the spread for Penn State for the fifth straight game this year.
Those who were on Northwestern screamed that Beau faked taking a knee and should have been ruled down. They were likely influenced by the B1G Replay Referee and Footwear Salesperson, Steve Strimling, who inexplicably said he was faking a kneel. Who takes a knee with a four-wideout formation? Let’s just say that I’m glad Strimling is in the booth and selling shoes and not on the field anymore. Sheesh.
Let’s face it. The team still has some work to do before hitting on all cylinders. The good news is the pieces are in place! Let’s just hope that it comes together over the next couple of weeks.
In the end, it was a solid win. Not the prettiest, but they did what they had to do to win – and cover! Another B1G road win. 1-0. Or, if you’re counting, 5-0.
Post Game Meal
When researching Northwestern, there was one place that was mentioned time and again – Mustard’s Last Stand. The tiny hot dog stand shares a parking lot with Ryan Field, and it is home to some legendary Chicago Dogs, and other regional staples like Chicago Beef, Polish Sausage, and Brats.
While you’re waiting in line to place your order at the counter, you can admire some of the memorabilia on the wall. There’s even a 1947 Life Magazine cover of Connellsville, PA’s Heisman Trophy winner, Johnny Lujack! He led Notre Dame to three National Championships (1943, 1946, 1947), even though his playing time was interrupted by a stint in the Navy during WWII. He was drafted by the Bears as the fourth overall pick and played for the team from 1948-1951. Johnny just passed away in July 2023 at the age of 98!
The ordering process here is akin to “Soup Nazi” or Pat’s Cheesesteaks. Know what you want and be ready to order when it’s your turn. Then have your cash ready – as that’s the preferred method of payment.
Over our recent visits to Chicago, we’ve both become fans of the classic Chicago Dog. And Mustard’s didn’t disappoint! It was the perfect cap to a game in the Windy City. The Vienna Beef dog is covered with fresh ingredients to give it a great mashup of flavors. If you’ve never had one, you’re missing out. Just don’t ask for ketchup!
Final Tour Around Town
We made one last attempt to hit their bookstore before heading out of town. Sadly, the bookstore closes at 3 p.m. – even on game days. We weren’t the only ones to get turned away. There were other disappointed Penn State fans as well. To us, this was just another example of the lack of enthusiasm and support for the program. Sad.
Another place we were told to check out was Piron, a Belgian Chocolatier in downtown Evanston. This small business has been creating some award-winning chocolates for 40 years! Of course, we loaded up on some treats!
One last stop we made before heading back for dinner was at Sketchbook, one of Evanston’s premier craft breweries. We had to bring our chocolates in from the car so they wouldn’t melt in the heat, and it made for a nice shot!
We had dinner at Francesco’s Hole in the Wall in Northbrook. These are the kinds of places that I wish we had in Arizona. A small authentic Italian joint with a hand-written menu covering today’s offerings. As we dined, Francesco paced the room and welcomed every guest – most by first name. Molto bene!
North Shore
The next morning, we explored some of what’s considered the North Shore area of Chicago. We covered the area between Evanston and Highland Park. The small villages perched on the cliffs of Lake Michigan are home to some of Chicagoland’s nicest ‘burbs. Winnetka, Glencoe, Wilmette, and Kenilworth are not only some of the wealthiest communities in Chicago, but they are some of the wealthiest in America! The views from the parks along the shoreline are spectacular!
Bahai House of Worship
Our last stop for the trip was a visit to the Bahai House of Worship in Wilmette. This temple was built by the Bahai faith and serves as a place of worship for any religious person. It’s believed by the Bahai that there is only one God and, no matter your religion, we should all worship one God.
The temple was built over a thirty-year span from 1921 – 1951. In 1978, it landed on the National Register of Historic Places.
The columns surrounding the building include the symbols of the world’s religions. At the top is a nine-pointed star that represents the Bahai Faith. Below that, there’s a crescent moon with a five-pointed star for Islam, a cross for Christianity, a six-pointed star for Judaism, and finally, a “hooked cross” for Buddhism, Hinduism, and, prior to WWII, some American Indian religions.
The gardens surrounding the lower level of the property invite guests to stroll the grounds in peace while they reflect.
After three trips to the Chicago area over the past year, I can truly say we really enjoyed our time there. Granted, all three trips were in early fall, so the weather was fantastic! We couldn’t imagine how cold it would be along the Lake in January or February. And it didn’t hurt that after all three trips, we came home with a Penn State victory!
Pop Quiz Answer – Northwestern was founded in 1851 by a group of Methodist business leaders to serve what was then known as America’s Northwestern Territory. Today, the area includes Ohio, Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Wisconsin and parts of Minnesota
Bonus Answer – Dr. John Evans was one of the original founders of the University, and they incorporated the land eight years after the school had opened and the village was named after him.
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wanderingspectator.wordpress.com 
Love your blog. And man can you tell a story! I thought Dan D’Aloia told a long story!
Ha! He does!